Monday, June 20, 2005

SBD Project: A few words...(Part I)

The words below are excerpts from an email that I sent to my Program Manager & the Program Supervisor just the other day. I thought it might serve as a good post also...

The following email excerpts were simply an expression of the frustrations that I have been feeling towards not the Peace Corps in general, but to that of my own personal experience with it thus far. These are thoughts that I have had for some time now and thought that I would share these with you all. And before these thoughts began to fester and rot away at my Peace Corps experience, I thought I would share them with my upper management here in Morocco-Peace Corps. In writing this email, it was my hope that I could in return receive some useful words of guidance. Whether that be a re-organization of my current site, a full disconnect with my counterpart, an intervention by someone at PCO (Peace Corps Office), an alternative approach to my current issues, or.... whatever.

Throughout Peace Corps (at least in my experience) there are the typical problematic volunteers which have complaints with just about anything. I certaintly don't want to become one of them, but I thought it was my duty to inform them of how I am currently experiencing the Peace Corps under their command, rather than speaking in the dark with co-workers whom are nothing better than sounding boards. As well, I thought they should also be aware that a few of these topics, that I shall soon share with you, were the same topics of discussion that boil to the surface for many of my fellow SBD volunteers stationed here in Morocco. I thanked them in advance for their time and waited for their guidance.

Pre-IST (Inner Service Training) -my first 6 months in the field
Most of the SBD volunteers arrive with some sort of basic business skill-sets. But, not all of us have several years of experience with development work (in general) and/or have the invaluable experience that is consistantly recognized by our veteran SBD volunteer (Gregg, who is in his late 50s and served in Peace Corps back when I was born). So, recognizing my own short comings early, and understanding my weaknesses as far as business effectiveness in this particular community, I had an the idea to invite an outside consultant (Aid to Artisans - http://aidtoartisans.org/) to arrive at my site in order to evaluate the posibilities for my site's artisan crafts. It was my hope, that by introducing an experienced international evaluator, that they would in turn be able to share with me a direction as to properly assist my community over the course of my future service. Coming away from this evalution, it was my understanding that these artisans required a major re-organization/focus/and training in order to extend their artisan crafts outside the inner-walls of their community marketplace (let alone an International market).

IST (Inner Service Training)
So, coming to IST, I was posed to present my ideas based on the information gathered from this evaluation (along with my own personal evaluation over the previous 6 months). Unfortunately, my counterpart was unavailable during the presentation of my project ideas at the IST (due to the fact that I was the last person to present and we had run over our time with other presentations). This was a major disappointment, returning back home to my site. Because I had come to the IST with my palms open, looking for some sort of useful answer(s) to the project ideas I was presenting. Along that line, I also saw this as a way for the PCO to become a mediator of sorts, and help both my counterpart and myself to reach an understanding as to the direction we should head in the future. Then by using the combined ideas/perspectives of my 6 month assessment, along with the willingness by my counterpart to absorb these ideas, we could then emerge from IST and begin executing the plan we had set forth for our future business relationship. However, upon my return to my site, I had a meeting with my counterpart to discuss these IST project ideas, in hopes that I would we could begin this process of implementation. Unfortunately, those project ideas that I presented at IST have now been rejected. My counterpart told me that he would rather I work on two new projects that were his primary concern now. I can't exactly say that I'm in agreeance with his project ideas, but who am I to argue with him? The way I see it is that it's his community, and he can run his artisana anyway he choses to do so. I'm only here for another 20 months, and then it's up to him to continue.

...SBD (Small Business Development) Peace Corps in Morocco...

Because of this, I currently feel that I've no real "business related" reason to be here at my site. Yes, I've successfully integrated throughout my community (even with the language barrier that I will discuss with you later), and according to my Chief of Police he and the community have completely welcomed me into their little village. So, this part of the Peace Corps objective is being fully realized. However, as for the business aspect to the "SBD" Peace Corps objective, I'm feeling as though this portion will come quite short of full realization. As of recently, I've somehow turned into my counterpart's "sidekick" and am at the will of his decision-making process. And the current work that he has proposed for me in return, seems so remedial that someone with a much lesser education/experience level could easily accomplish this. I have to question my Peace Corps experience and ask, "Have I been placed in a community that can fully utilize my unique skills/education, or am I just another helping hand in the community working for free?"

To be completely honest with you, when I signed up to work as a Peace Corps volunteer, and commited 27 months of my life to the service of a third-world community, I didn't quite expect to be doing this. In fact, I didn't know what at all to expect, because of the lack of information sharing on the part of Peace Corps. But, after the long application process for Peace Corps service, and the assesment of my skills (business experience, education, personal traits, etc.), it was my understanding that I would be placed in a community that could utilize these skills for their betterment. Was I somehow obtuse in my assumptions towards the preparation of my arrival? Or, was I simply just expecting too much from a division of Peace Corps in Morocco that was only 5 years old? These topics bring me to "Site Development"...

Site Development (the introduction of a volunteer to a community):
After discussing this with both my Program Manager and my Program Supervisor, and then again hearing their comments at IST, I understood that this is an area that is "under construction". However, when I signed up for Peace Corps Morocco, I was under the impression that all the months of paperwork issued to their office would be reviewed and matched appropriately to a site in need of my unique skill-set. And before I go into the other topics, let me just first say that Tachelhit (a language dialect of Berber) is the primary language that is spoken here at my site, and not Dariza (Arabic). However, over my 3 month training, I concentrated on Dariza (Arabic), and unfortunately there are not sufficient enough educators here at my site to train me in this new language. Obviously, this was an issue during last year's stage, which is why I'm assuming this year's stage was split up into; Tamazight (a language dialect of Berber from the High Atlas Mountains) , Tachelhit (a language dialect of Berber from the Lower Atlas Mountains), and Dariza (Moroccan Standard Arabic). So, this is an obvious mistake that should have been realized much earlier during the placement process. In addition to this, I am the first SBD type volunteer to be placed at my site, so one could assume that there would be some confusion with how this all works, but again this is something I feel PCO should have taken extra time to explain to my community before placing a SBD volunteer there. At it was, upon my arrival to my site, my counterpart had little idea as to who I was and why I was now standing before him at his frontsteps explaining to him (in my best broken Dariza-Arabic) that I was to live with him for the next 2 months (let alone how he may utilize me in the following years to come).

In closing, I explained to them that I didn't want to make more work for them or sound as though I'm one of those problematic volunteers. It's just that my motivations for being a Peace Corps volunteer are fading quickly, and I'd like to see what changes could be done, prior to me making an early exit. I continuiously ask myself the question, "Should I stay with Peace Corps, just because I am committed to service?" And my personal response to that has been, "Should anyone stay with a broken relationship, just because they committed to it months prior, regardless of the disfunctionality of that relationship?"

Because when we talk about sustainability in general, I also believe that the sustainability of the volunteer needs to be in consideration. Sure, each volunteer comes into service with their own personal motivations that will sustain each of them throughtout the duration of their service, and it's not the job of Peace Corps to maintain this for everyone. But, my particular motivation stems from the general concept of "helping out my fellow man". However, I was under the impression that would be accomplished by means of sharing experiences/skills that I've acquired. If I was just interested in "helping out my fellow man", than I could have signed up within another sector of the Peace Corps like Youth Development (where there is no prerequisite for service entry). And I don't think I'm asking too much if I ask to be placed in an appropriate community where this motivation has the opportunity to blossom. In the end, I as a volunteer need to feel as though I am making a significant enough difference, by sharing the years of experience I have accrued with that of my community. Sure, this is volunteer work, but I have to be selfish and say that I expect something of an "exchange" for my 27 months of service.

Friday, June 10, 2005

In a Berber Village far....far....away....


...every so often when we travel, we come across traditions/customs/holidays that differ so much from those of our own and those experienced on our home soil of America. Well, this just so happens to be one of those. Unfortunately, I can not tell you the name of this Berber Village (which is just 1km South of Amizmiz in the mountain ranges behind it) nor can I tell you the name of this sacred event that happened in the month of February. What I can do is show you pictures from it though, and try to explain the ceremony's details as they unfolded... Posted by Hello

View of the Berber Village from afar (1) Posted by Hello

View of the Berber Village from afar (2) Posted by Hello

View of the Berber Village from afar (3) Posted by Hello

Mingling with the locals Posted by Hello

"Berber London Eye" Posted by Hello

Myself on the right, with the Atlas Mountain range behind me
Posted by Hello

...then as my sitemate and I arrived to this part of the Berber Village, we were uncertaint as to what we were about to experience. There was a huge commotion and villagers began to crowd in front of the this office building on the right here with the aqua-blue archway. We came with an open mind, open camera shutters, and luckily of all... we came just as the excitement began to unfold. Here I am after the spectical finished, and hereafter are the pictures of that Mayhem... Many of you have asked for the "true" Peace Corps experience....and so here it is...Posted by Hello

I thought this was pretty cool, as it's the Berber version of the "London Eye" Posted by Hello

The officials from the Village of Amizmiz, showing their support for this sacred Berber Holiday Posted by Hello

...seats and viewpoints were limited, but some managed to get a bird's eye view from atop this mudhut. Posted by Hello

...the SACRAFICAL COW!! Posted by Hello

...then the man in the white jelaba (in the middle of this image) was consistantly chanting holy phrases while they prepared for the coming of... Posted by Hello

...they paraded this cow into the square, and then a man came out with a huge bow-shaped knife and cut the throat of this cow. The cow then struggling for oxygen as it began to stumble aimlessly. Everyone scurried as to not be trampled upon by the dying beast, until it finally fell to its death. Posted by Hello

*Islamic dietary laws begin in the Quran, dictated to the Prophet Mohammed by the angel Gabriel around 620 AD. Then there are the Sunnah, the deeds of the Prophet, or the things he recommended or approved; and the hadith, the sayings of the Prophet, relayed through people who knew him. The combination of the Quran with the deeds and sayings of the Prophet Mohammed make up the rules of Islam. There is no centralized Islamic authority, so there are differences of opinion based on the Shariah (religious legislation), varying by region/country or sect. Posted by Hello

*In both Islam and Judaism, blood is viewed as symbolic of life, and so eating or drinking the blood of an animal is forbidden. And for those of us whom grew up in through Christianity, you might also know that we view blood as symbolizing life, but as you know this takes on a different route--the symbolic drinking of blood is a Christian remembrance of Christ's sacrifice in order to win eternal life for his people. Posted by Hello

*...and, to be fair, we should add a few comments for Christianity. Although mainstream Christianity has no dietary laws to speak of, there was a time when meat was forbidden to Catholics on Fridays, and many Christians refrain from meat during Lent, but these are more in the nature of "special occasion" meals, rather than everyday dietary rules. Posted by Hello

Just in case these images weren't enough to satify your "blood-thirst", I've also a 20 second video of this slaughter that I can send to you. (just email me if you'd like me to forward it to you) - I might also apologize to those now, whom had to see this (like my Mom), but I think it's important that those back home see what I'm experiencing. (good/bad/or etc.) Posted by Hello

Thursday, June 09, 2005


"Choco Crack" - Not only is the brand name pretty funny, but their eyes, etc.!! Posted by Hello