High Atlas Mountains (Marrekesh)
Monday, November 01, 2004
Sunday, October 24, 2004
Sunday, October 17, 2004
Learning the Stories over Tea
Brief History Lesson...
The importance that Jews once played in the country is not readily apparent. Much of Jewish Morocco is hidden from view, but with a trip to a local silversmith artist just outside of the Todra Gorge, we gained a first-hand understanding of not only the rich artistic trade of silver craftsmanship that the Jews taught to the Moroccans, but also the fascinating role of Jews in Moroccan society. In short, the Jews and Arabs lived a symbiotic existence until the middle of the twentieth century. Moroccan kings protected the Jews from harm and helped some of them develop the wealth that sustained the monarchy for many years. Today, no more than 5,000 Jews remain, compared to 300,000 in 1950. And from what this particular artist told us, it's his understanding that all the Jews have left Morocco.
Diving into more depth...
The symbiotic but occasionally tense relationships with Muslim Arabs and Berbers were destabilized by colonial powers beginning in the mid-19th century. Increasing control by colonial powers and popular resistance to colonization prevented Moroccan Sultans from protecting Jewish communities. In forcing Morocco to become a protectorate in 1912, France justified its intervention partially on claims by non-Moroccan Jewish organizations that Moroccan Jews were being mistreated.
France encouraged the secularization of Moroccan Jews and their identification with the colonial powers. To strengthen French control over the country, French administrators purposefully created divisions between Jews and Muslims. Morocco’s experience under Vichy France from 1940-1942 convinced Jews that the Sultan could not protect them, even if he wanted to.
By the end of WWII, a large percentage of Jews were living in poverty, leading many to migrate to overcrowded urban mellahs from rural towns.
Nationalist solidarity with Arabs resisting the establishment of Israel, and French incitement of anti-Semitism created antagonism between Jews and Muslims. Jews felt a sense of alienation when Nationalists discouraged them from joining the struggle for independence. Zionist groups exacerbated feelings of insecurity among Moroccan Jews. They argued that life would be better for them in Israel. Non-Israeli Jewish organizations facilitated emigration, both directly and indirectly. Upon independence in 1956, under pressure from the World Jewish community, Morocco granted the Jews full citizenship, but prohibited them from communicating with Israelis or emigrating to Israel. Israel’s Six-Day War in 1967 and Muslim solidarity with Arabs panicked many Moroccan Jews. By this time, the remaining Moroccan Jews had adequate resources to emigrate to Canada, Europe, Latin America and the US. They emigrated despite their inability to take most of their savings and assets with them.
Moroccan "Rules"...
In our off time here in Tinghir, my training group and I enjoy spending our evenings amongst the local community. I thought this was a particularly good opportunity, as well as a photographic representation, to share with you the typical culture clashing we have witnessed thus far. In this particular scene, you will first notice that we are playing a simple game of pool at a local cafe'. What's different about this situation is the apparent confusion displayed by the pointing of fingers and gaping mouths on the part of both my team-mate and myself. Basically, we were one shot away from sinking the 8-ball in the corner pocket, when conveniently the Moroccan (pictured in the red shirt) implores the Moroccan "Rules" on us. So, in an effort to spread cultural studies to those back home, here's the short story...
Okay... so although there's quite a bit of felt between our Cue-ball and the 8-ball, it's a fairly easy shot that my partner (Motism) would easily finish off. But just as we're getting ready to sink the 8-ball, this Moroccan Johnny Cocrane played the Moroccan "Rules" card and goes on to inform us that we not only have to sink the 8-ball, but we have to do it while banking it. And here's the best part....... we have to bank it off the wall of HIS choice. Now what kind of janky-ass shit was that???? The first thing that popped into my mind was, "I've come over 6000 miles for this, when I could have gone down to 7th street and Market St. to get the same treatment."
Obviously, this isn't the easiest of shots, and so we spent the next 10-15 mins practicing our newly obtained skills of international diplomacy. And although there was only 20Dh ($2US) on the game, we felt as if he was trying to bury us in the sand here (sort of speak). Yielding to home-court rules, we calmly spent the next............... 40+ mins trying to sink that damned 8-ball in the hole!! We finally prevailed and pulled out a "W" in the end, representing all the shit-hole pubs we learned the game from back home in the states.
Now un-balanced by the event, we proceeded to spend a few minutes de-briefing over some mint tea. As we began breaking down this experience, we came (to what we thought) was a simple explaination...
- 19% un-employment rate
- Wage earners work less than five months per year, so there's plenty of time.
- The typical wage earner among the poor earns one third of the average wage and about half the legislated minimum wage.
- The understood practice of incest amonst some rural Berber communities, and not ruling out that this guy might just be a product of that.
- Realizing that it's the month of Ramadan and fasting without water (which practically makes up about 70% of someone's body weight), and the lack of food, lead to dehydration, which can leave you feeling tired, making it hard to concentrate.
...and many, many other educated guesses.
In the end, not only did we walk away a bit more confused, 20Dh richer, a much better understanding of Moroccan "Rules" pool, but we also realized that our cultures are not as differant as we may have thought...and that even the men here in Morocco, will make up any off-the-wall excuse not to go home to their wives right after work.
The History of Ramadan...
What is "Ramadan"...
Ramadan is the ninth month of the Islamic calendar. Islam uses a lunar calendar—that is, each month begins with the sighting of the new moon. Because the lunar calendar is about 11 days shorter than the solar calendar used elsewhere, Islamic holidays "move" each year. In 2004 Ramadan will begin on Oct. 15. For more than a billion Muslims around the world—including some 8 million in North America—Ramadan is a "month of blessing" marked by prayer, fasting, and charity. This year Ramadan precedes Christmas and Hanukkah. But while in many places these holidays have become widely commercialized, Ramadan retains its focus on self-sacrifice and devotion to Allah (God).
Muslims believe that during the month of Ramadan, Allah revealed the first verses of the Qur'an, the holy book of Islam. Around 610 A.D., a caravan trader named Muhammad took to wandering the desert near Mecca (in today's Saudi Arabia) while thinking about his faith. One night a voice called to him from the night sky. It was the angel Gabriel, who told Muhammad he had been chosen to receive the word of Allah. In the days that followed, Muhammad found himself speaking the verses that would be transcribed as the Qur'an. At many mosques during Ramadan, about one thirtieth of the Qur'an is recited each night in prayers known as tarawih. In this way, by the end of the month the complete scripture will have been recited.
Fasting
Muslims practice sawm, or fasting, for the entire month of Ramadan. This means that they may eat or drink nothing, including water, while the sun shines. Fasting is one of the Five Pillars (duties) of Islam. As with other Islamic duties, all able Muslims take part in sawm from about age twelve. During Ramadan in the Muslim world, most restaurants are closed during the daylight hours. Families get up early for suhoor, a meal eaten before the sun rises. After the sun sets, the fast is broken with a meal known as iftar. Iftar usually begins with dates and sweet drinks that provide a quick energy boost. Fasting serves many purposes. While they are hungry and thirsty, Muslims are reminded of the suffering of the poor. Fasting is also an opportunity to practice self-control and to cleanse the body and mind. And in this most sacred month, fasting helps Muslims feel the peace that comes from spiritual devotion as well as kinship with fellow believers.
Eid al-Fitr
Ramadan ends with the festival of Eid al-Fitr, which occurs on November 14 of this year. Literally the "Festival of Breaking the Fast," Eid al-Fitr is one of the two most important Islamic celebrations (the other occurs after the Hajj, or pilgrimage to Mecca). At Eid al-Fitr people dress in their finest clothes, adorn their homes with lights and decorations, give treats to children, and enjoy visits with friends and family. A sense of generosity and gratitude colors these festivities. Although charity and good deeds are always important in Islam, they have special significance at the end of Ramadan. As the month draws to a close, Muslims are obligated to share their blessings by feeding the poor and making contributions to mosques.
Ramadan is the ninth month of the Islamic calendar. Islam uses a lunar calendar—that is, each month begins with the sighting of the new moon. Because the lunar calendar is about 11 days shorter than the solar calendar used elsewhere, Islamic holidays "move" each year. In 2004 Ramadan will begin on Oct. 15. For more than a billion Muslims around the world—including some 8 million in North America—Ramadan is a "month of blessing" marked by prayer, fasting, and charity. This year Ramadan precedes Christmas and Hanukkah. But while in many places these holidays have become widely commercialized, Ramadan retains its focus on self-sacrifice and devotion to Allah (God).
Muslims believe that during the month of Ramadan, Allah revealed the first verses of the Qur'an, the holy book of Islam. Around 610 A.D., a caravan trader named Muhammad took to wandering the desert near Mecca (in today's Saudi Arabia) while thinking about his faith. One night a voice called to him from the night sky. It was the angel Gabriel, who told Muhammad he had been chosen to receive the word of Allah. In the days that followed, Muhammad found himself speaking the verses that would be transcribed as the Qur'an. At many mosques during Ramadan, about one thirtieth of the Qur'an is recited each night in prayers known as tarawih. In this way, by the end of the month the complete scripture will have been recited.
Fasting
Muslims practice sawm, or fasting, for the entire month of Ramadan. This means that they may eat or drink nothing, including water, while the sun shines. Fasting is one of the Five Pillars (duties) of Islam. As with other Islamic duties, all able Muslims take part in sawm from about age twelve. During Ramadan in the Muslim world, most restaurants are closed during the daylight hours. Families get up early for suhoor, a meal eaten before the sun rises. After the sun sets, the fast is broken with a meal known as iftar. Iftar usually begins with dates and sweet drinks that provide a quick energy boost. Fasting serves many purposes. While they are hungry and thirsty, Muslims are reminded of the suffering of the poor. Fasting is also an opportunity to practice self-control and to cleanse the body and mind. And in this most sacred month, fasting helps Muslims feel the peace that comes from spiritual devotion as well as kinship with fellow believers.
Eid al-Fitr
Ramadan ends with the festival of Eid al-Fitr, which occurs on November 14 of this year. Literally the "Festival of Breaking the Fast," Eid al-Fitr is one of the two most important Islamic celebrations (the other occurs after the Hajj, or pilgrimage to Mecca). At Eid al-Fitr people dress in their finest clothes, adorn their homes with lights and decorations, give treats to children, and enjoy visits with friends and family. A sense of generosity and gratitude colors these festivities. Although charity and good deeds are always important in Islam, they have special significance at the end of Ramadan. As the month draws to a close, Muslims are obligated to share their blessings by feeding the poor and making contributions to mosques.
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Saturday, October 02, 2004
A Typical Day...
4am- I start each day and wake to the "Call to Prayer". Every morning I hear the sounds of "Allah u Akbarh..." which lasts about 10 mins. As I'm sure you know, Muslims pray to Mecca 5 times a day, and throughout the day you will hear the Mosque bellowing out passages of the Coran, which alerts each Muslim that it's time to stop what they are doing and thank Allah for their existence. Unfortunately for me, the 1st call begins at 4am, and it just so happens that my place of residence is 2 blocks from the loudspeakers which rest upon the belltower of the local Mosque.
6am- After falling back to sleep, my alarm sounds alerting me that it's time to get up off my ass and start working some of this Corporation Chunk off. I tie on my Nikes like a slow motion commercial and take to the dirt roads, but instead of running along the SF Bay, I spend my time manuevering through the donkey shit, glass, women in bedsheets, all while being chased by rabid dogs. Suprisingly, I'm not the first one up and out of the barn. I run upon women and old men harvesting their land for crops. We share stares, each wondering what the hell would motivate the other to get up at 6am to be in those sun-drenched fields.
7am- Returning from my jog, I open the rusty steel door to the welcoming sounds of my seven brothers and sisters wondering where I've been for the last hour. Although we don't we speak the same language, we communicate extremely well. My favorite little sister is Sanna. She's about 10 years old, and reminds me of my two neices back home. We've developed a special handshake, which reminds of the little ones back home. After I change into my clothes for school, I head back outside to discover that the breakfast rug has been rolled out and 3 of my 7 brothers/sisters are waiting patiently for me to join them. I take off my flip-flops before stepping onto the rug, sit down (crossing my legs next to the 2 foot high table) and begin my meal with a "Bismilla" (God Bless this Meal). Then it's all about drinking tea, butter-milk, well-water, breaking loaves of bread, and eating the fresh eggs from the henhouse.
750am- After sharing a few laughs and a many confusing moments, I ask to leave the table with a... "SBet Baraka Hum'Du'Allah". (I'm Full, Praise God). Heading off to school, I enter the streets of Tinehir where the dust struggles to find oxygen through the exhaust filled air. So, now instead of weaving in and out of donkeys, I find myself avoiding motorcycles and bikes which seem to spring up out of the cracks of this mudbrick-medina.
8am- Our classroom is situated on the lower-level of a two story Moroccan home. I'm greeted by the housewife (Fatima) and head towards the faint sounds of English being spoken by my fellow PCVs. Welcoming my class with a few Hum'Du'Allahs, we spent the first 10 mins devowering any and all English that we can before we journey into past to learn this 700 year old language of Arabic Script, and spend the rest of the day learning to makes sounds as foreign as the tatooed faces of the women we meet on the streets..
6pm- Saturated our minds are with Arabic, realizing this, our teacher finally releases us from our fly-infested quarters, and then it's off the the internet for me. The internet is like an international bus station full of Spanish, French, and x-Patriots connecting with their base. And although I'm probably supposed to go straight home after class, instead I spend the next two and a half hours catching up with friends, reading the USnews, and working on this website of mine. I try not to pass too much judgement on myself, as I happily excape the life of "Arabia" and listen the sounds of Outkast on my iPod.
9pm-11pm Paying the eqivalent of 3 US Dollars for the past few hours of domestic exstacy, and smelling of cigarette smoke laced with body odor, I once again take to the streets of Mohammed V towards my host family's farm-house. Dinner is served at about 10pm, so I've still got a few minutes to settle in and prepare myself for the burraude of questions/phrases/and foreign sounds of my non-English speaking host family of nine. The negative feelings of being in this new environment quickly dissapate the instant I see the welcoming smiles of my newly adopted little brothers and sisters. (Sanna (10), Hisham (12), Fahd (14), Smia (17), Niama (19), Abdullahtif (21), Mohammed (25)) After eating dinner around 10pm, we spend the rest of the night sharing laughs, wrestling, and learning about the cultural/language of eachother. After a few more God Phrases, I head off to my very own private quarters, while the rest of my brothers/sisters cram into one room where they will spend the rest of their night sleeping to the sounds of livestock which are situated just outside the window from them.
6am- After falling back to sleep, my alarm sounds alerting me that it's time to get up off my ass and start working some of this Corporation Chunk off. I tie on my Nikes like a slow motion commercial and take to the dirt roads, but instead of running along the SF Bay, I spend my time manuevering through the donkey shit, glass, women in bedsheets, all while being chased by rabid dogs. Suprisingly, I'm not the first one up and out of the barn. I run upon women and old men harvesting their land for crops. We share stares, each wondering what the hell would motivate the other to get up at 6am to be in those sun-drenched fields.
7am- Returning from my jog, I open the rusty steel door to the welcoming sounds of my seven brothers and sisters wondering where I've been for the last hour. Although we don't we speak the same language, we communicate extremely well. My favorite little sister is Sanna. She's about 10 years old, and reminds me of my two neices back home. We've developed a special handshake, which reminds of the little ones back home. After I change into my clothes for school, I head back outside to discover that the breakfast rug has been rolled out and 3 of my 7 brothers/sisters are waiting patiently for me to join them. I take off my flip-flops before stepping onto the rug, sit down (crossing my legs next to the 2 foot high table) and begin my meal with a "Bismilla" (God Bless this Meal). Then it's all about drinking tea, butter-milk, well-water, breaking loaves of bread, and eating the fresh eggs from the henhouse.
750am- After sharing a few laughs and a many confusing moments, I ask to leave the table with a... "SBet Baraka Hum'Du'Allah". (I'm Full, Praise God). Heading off to school, I enter the streets of Tinehir where the dust struggles to find oxygen through the exhaust filled air. So, now instead of weaving in and out of donkeys, I find myself avoiding motorcycles and bikes which seem to spring up out of the cracks of this mudbrick-medina.
8am- Our classroom is situated on the lower-level of a two story Moroccan home. I'm greeted by the housewife (Fatima) and head towards the faint sounds of English being spoken by my fellow PCVs. Welcoming my class with a few Hum'Du'Allahs, we spent the first 10 mins devowering any and all English that we can before we journey into past to learn this 700 year old language of Arabic Script, and spend the rest of the day learning to makes sounds as foreign as the tatooed faces of the women we meet on the streets..
6pm- Saturated our minds are with Arabic, realizing this, our teacher finally releases us from our fly-infested quarters, and then it's off the the internet for me. The internet is like an international bus station full of Spanish, French, and x-Patriots connecting with their base. And although I'm probably supposed to go straight home after class, instead I spend the next two and a half hours catching up with friends, reading the USnews, and working on this website of mine. I try not to pass too much judgement on myself, as I happily excape the life of "Arabia" and listen the sounds of Outkast on my iPod.
9pm-11pm Paying the eqivalent of 3 US Dollars for the past few hours of domestic exstacy, and smelling of cigarette smoke laced with body odor, I once again take to the streets of Mohammed V towards my host family's farm-house. Dinner is served at about 10pm, so I've still got a few minutes to settle in and prepare myself for the burraude of questions/phrases/and foreign sounds of my non-English speaking host family of nine. The negative feelings of being in this new environment quickly dissapate the instant I see the welcoming smiles of my newly adopted little brothers and sisters. (Sanna (10), Hisham (12), Fahd (14), Smia (17), Niama (19), Abdullahtif (21), Mohammed (25)) After eating dinner around 10pm, we spend the rest of the night sharing laughs, wrestling, and learning about the cultural/language of eachother. After a few more God Phrases, I head off to my very own private quarters, while the rest of my brothers/sisters cram into one room where they will spend the rest of their night sleeping to the sounds of livestock which are situated just outside the window from them.
Friday, October 01, 2004
Miss October: Lee Wilbur (Mostism)
Name at birth Lee Wilbur
Age 27
The Peace Corps volunteer who has been blessed with the title of "Miss October 2004" is none other than our very own Lee Wilbur. Some might also know him by one of his Peace Corps names such as Motism and/or The Sherpa. For the purposes of his profile, we will refer to him as "Motism", which actually means in Arabic- Adhering to Faith, To God . Motism comes to us from Montana, however he wouldn't have been honored with the name of SHERPA if Montana was his only place of residence. Let's take a quick moment to point out where he has lived; Billings-Montana, Raymore-Missouri, Crete-Nebraska, WinstonSalem-North Carolina, Brattleboro-Vermont, BergischGladach-Germany, Goettingen-Germany, Freiburg-Germany, LeHavre-France, Mokpo-South Korea, Seoul-South Korea, ElGreyat-Jordan, Joffa-Jordan, and currently Tinehir-Morocco. And if you're ever looking for a guide, you will be happy to know that he also speaks up to 6 languages (Germany, English, French, Arabic, Dutch, Korean). Before joining the Peace Corps, Motism took some time out of his schedule to fit in a Master's Degree in Intercultural Relations, as well as work on an Indian Reservation developing sustainable businesses for the locals.
When judging for Miss October, our selection staff (having strict guidelines) observed this particular Peace Corps volunteer and noticed his inate ability to add color to any story by using his own personal experiences. If you ever encounter him, you might find him saying such things as... "Do you mind if I tell you alittle story...". Then proceed to give a 20-30 minute presentation (off the cuff) about the cultural diversity, all while sighting accurate historical/political accounts of that particular time in history. This not only educates his fellow classmates, but prolongs the training classes for at least another hour or so. In addition to this, you might also find him bellowing out God Phrases faster than a Roman-Catholic Bishop pleading their case in front of the Supreme Court. Because of this, and many other factors not stated, we are happy to bestow the honor of "Miss October" to one... Mr. Motism. On behalf of our staff here, I'd like to thank you for your contibutions. We look forward to your many vibrate experiences in the near future.
Age 27
The Peace Corps volunteer who has been blessed with the title of "Miss October 2004" is none other than our very own Lee Wilbur. Some might also know him by one of his Peace Corps names such as Motism and/or The Sherpa. For the purposes of his profile, we will refer to him as "Motism", which actually means in Arabic- Adhering to Faith, To God . Motism comes to us from Montana, however he wouldn't have been honored with the name of SHERPA if Montana was his only place of residence. Let's take a quick moment to point out where he has lived; Billings-Montana, Raymore-Missouri, Crete-Nebraska, WinstonSalem-North Carolina, Brattleboro-Vermont, BergischGladach-Germany, Goettingen-Germany, Freiburg-Germany, LeHavre-France, Mokpo-South Korea, Seoul-South Korea, ElGreyat-Jordan, Joffa-Jordan, and currently Tinehir-Morocco. And if you're ever looking for a guide, you will be happy to know that he also speaks up to 6 languages (Germany, English, French, Arabic, Dutch, Korean). Before joining the Peace Corps, Motism took some time out of his schedule to fit in a Master's Degree in Intercultural Relations, as well as work on an Indian Reservation developing sustainable businesses for the locals.
When judging for Miss October, our selection staff (having strict guidelines) observed this particular Peace Corps volunteer and noticed his inate ability to add color to any story by using his own personal experiences. If you ever encounter him, you might find him saying such things as... "Do you mind if I tell you alittle story...". Then proceed to give a 20-30 minute presentation (off the cuff) about the cultural diversity, all while sighting accurate historical/political accounts of that particular time in history. This not only educates his fellow classmates, but prolongs the training classes for at least another hour or so. In addition to this, you might also find him bellowing out God Phrases faster than a Roman-Catholic Bishop pleading their case in front of the Supreme Court. Because of this, and many other factors not stated, we are happy to bestow the honor of "Miss October" to one... Mr. Motism. On behalf of our staff here, I'd like to thank you for your contibutions. We look forward to your many vibrate experiences in the near future.
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